Crate Training your Pug is not Torture!
How many of you have had someone tell you that crate training is mean and does not work when training your pug? Let me just say that with any type of training, that there is a right way and a wrong way to do it. Obviously locking your pug in his crate all day, every day is not only incorrect but is also unhealthy and mean. And if this is where you keep your pug all the time, then you should find a new home for your pug. A crate should be used for the first few months that you have your pug, until he/she is housebroken. And then after they have been house broken, a crate can be a great place for your pet to go to sleep, to relax or to just get away for a little alone time. Lets face it even dogs need some alone time. Usually when crate training has been done correctly, your pug will actually enjoy using his/her crate on their own.
The rule of thumb with house training is that a dog will not soil the area where they eat and sleep. But if you allow them to roam the house freely when you are potty training them, a house becomes a pretty big space where then can get themselves into to trouble. So if the dog poops upstairs but their food is down stairs, then technically they did not soil their space they soiled yours. The key is to have them in their crate during the times you will not be able to keep a constant eye on them. And to have them in their crate around the time of day they would generally need to go to the bathroom. In other words, crate training is most successfull when you also try to get your pug on a potty schedule. Pet’s are somewhat like kids. They need a consistant routine in order to learn their best.
So the best way to give you some insight on how crate training worked for us, is to tell you what we did. We got our pug “Henry” from a Pug rescue. He was about 1 yrs old when we got him. He was not housebroken. In fact, the foster home we got him from kept a belly band on him at all times in order for him not to pee in the house. In case your curious, a belly band is like a doggie diaper. In any case, we had our work was cut out for us. The first thing we did was get a crate and a crate training book for dummies. Based on what I read the crate should be slightly bigger then the dog is going to be when it is full grown. The idea is that it should be roomy enough for the dog to be comfortable and to be able to turn around in, but not so big that they will pee and poop in one corner and then sleep way over on the other side.
So now we had the crate and the book. The first thing we did was to leave the crate out in the middle of the room so that “Henry” could inspect it and get used to it. Then that night before we went to bed, we took “Henry” out one last time for potty. We made sure to spend extra time outside to make sure he had done his business. When we went to bed we put “Henry” in his crate and closed the door. As soon as we got up the next morning, we took him out of his crate and immediately took him outside. And as expected he went to the bathroom right away. As soon as he did his business we praised him relentlessley and gave him a treat. When we came back inside we gave him his breakfast and water. Now this is important. After breakfast we let him hang out for a short time before putting him back in his crate. Generally a dog will have to relieve themselves a little while after eating and drinking.
So after about 1-2hrs of him taking a short nap in his crate I let him out and took him outside. And with success he went potty. Again we rewarded “Henry” with joyful praise and another treat, and repeated the crate process. Before putting him back into his crate we let him hang out and explore under close supervision. As days went on we let him out of his crate for longer periods of time between potty breaks. But we made sure always to keep an eye on him to ensure no accidents. We learned a lot by observing ‘Henry” when he wasn’t in his crate. One imortant thing we learned was how long he could go between meals before he needed to go out. When observing, we also watched for the tell tale potty signs that dogs usually give right before relieveing themselves. Like pacing back and forth or circling one particular spot. And sometimes even sniffing obsessivly of the floor or your furniture. And let me just say, that no matter how well your pug is doing accidents can and will happen. So don’t get discourage or mad when it does. It is all part of the process. After all sometimes we have to make mistakes to learn the lesson.
So to sum it up. Crate training is a great tool when used in conjunction with a consistant potty routine and loving but stearn discipline when those accidents do happen. Our pug “Henry” enjoys his crate. He sleeps in it every night. He goes in his crate when we go out and many times I find him in there napping. With time your pug will come to love his crate and be a happy house trained Pug.
February 5, 2009 No Comments
What to Feed a Pug
Each breed of dog has it’s own special dietary needs. So trying to figure out what foods will meet those needs of your pug, can sometimes be overwhelming. The foods on the market come in various price ranges, brands and flavors. Trying to figure out which one is the right one is confusing.
I myself find that a low calorie, dry kibble diet is best for my pug. We tried to incorporate some wet canned food, but found out very quickly that it gave our pug a lot of smelly gas. So after a few days of holding our noses we realized that the wet food had to go. We stick to a small sized low calorie kibble that has chicken and lamb in it. We also wanted to make sure that the food would be good for his coat and his teeth.
The second thing to think about is, how much should you feed your pug. Reember that Pug’s are not workout machines. They are lap dogs and love lying around. So you do not want to over feed, or you will wind up with an over weight pug. A healthy weight for a pug is between 14-18lbs. We find that 1/2 cup twice a day, with a few little liver treats during the day, keeps our pug’s weight steady and keeps him healthy and happy. Don’t get me wrong he will hide under the table when we are eating hoping for some crumbs to fall. Pugs are know for their love of food. But that doesn’t mean that they should eat anything and everything. Maintaining a healthy diet and adequate portions for your pug will only keep him healthy and happy.
As with any advice on a pug’s health or diet. Always consult with a vet with any questions or concerns you have about any health or diet issues in your pug. They are the best resource out there.
February 5, 2009 No Comments
Potential Pug Health Issues
Like any other dog breed, pug’s have their own unique health issues to be aware of. There isn’t much you can do about them except be educated of what they are or could be. Most of a pug’s health issues are pretty simple to deal with. But there are a few that you should keep in mind. The three main health issues to be aware of are eye problems, breathing problems and leg/knee problems.
A pug’s 4 main eye issues are: dry eye syndrome, bilateral cataracts, entropion, and lastly (PRA) also known as Progressive Retinal Atrophy. Dry eye syndrome can be common but manageable. Dry eye syndrome usually developes because there is a decline of tear production in the eyes. If it is diagnosed early most pugs will will respond to either surgery and/or drug therapy. But if dry eye syndrome is left untreated in can cause infection, scarring, and even lead to blindness. The second eye condition is called Entropion. This issue is caused due to the pug’s eyelid rolling inward, causing the pug’s eyelashes to rub on the eye and irritating the surface of the eyeball. This should also be treated since it might lead to more serious problems such as blindness. The third eye issue is Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) PRA is the deterioration of the vessels around the retina. This condition usually begins with night blindness in younger dogs, but as their vision deteriorates it can lead to blindness.
For a potential pug owner or new pug owner, the sounds that a pug can make when they breath can be scary. Rest assured these sounds are very normal. The Pug dog makes various snorting noises when breathing and tends to snore extrremly loudly. They do not have much control over these noises, it is what it is. The pug’s nasal passages are very short. Although the snorting, snoring an wheezing are very common traits in pug’s, please remember that a “Collapsed Trachea”, “Elongated Palate” or “Kennel Cough can make breathing even harder on a pug. So if you suspect that something just doesn’t sound right, or you see your pug really having difficulty breathing . Then you should take them to a vet right away.
Hip Displaysia and Patellar Luxation are issues of the hip and the knees. Hip Dysplaysia is often caused by a malformation of the hip joints. Patellar Luxation )aka kneecap dislocation) occurs when the kneecap slips while the pug is walking. Both conditions can cause stiffness, pain and limping.
Lastly, please remember that since Pugs have a pushed in face that causes them to have a short nose and bulky eyes, they can easily scratch their eye cornea or even puncture their eyeballs. So always be sure to do your best to keep them away from sharp objects at all times!
As mentioned earlier, all breeds come with their own laundry list of health issues and concerns. Educating yourself about these issues prepares you to handle them and often times avoiding something more serious. So do your research.
February 5, 2009 No Comments
Is a pug for you?
With anything, proper research should always be the first step. Before deciding on a Pug or any dog breed for that matter, you should sit down and think about what exactly you are looking for. I know, I know. It almost sounds like you’re out car shopping. In many ways it is like car shopping. You have to determine what qualities you are looking for and what needs you are looking to fulfill. Bringing a pug or any dog into your home and/or family is a huge decision and should never be taken lightly.
First decide on the size you are looking for. Often the type of home you live in will dictate what size is realistic to have as opposed to what size you want. For instance, if you live in a small apartment in the city, you might not want to consider a large breed like a Boxer, Lab, or bullmastiff. These dogs generally need a bit more space then your smaller breeds, like the pug.
Second. What energy level are you looking for? Are you a runner? Do you want a jogging companion? Or, are you more of a homebody looking for a companion to cuddle on the coach with? Many times well intentioned people will convince themselves that they can handle a high energy dog, like a boxer. High energy dogs take a lot of patience, time and consistent training, and most importantly regular exercise. Just think about how you would feel being cooped up all day, everyday in doors with only a few potty breaks here or there. Most times if a high energy dog is left alone for to long, they can and usually do get themselves into trouble. And at times cause damage. You should only consider a high energy dog if you can maintain an active lifestyle for that dog. Pugs tend to have low to medium energy. They are more geared toward a low key lifestyle.
Another very important thing to consider is kids. Do you have kids, or planning to have them? Well if you answered yes to that question, then the dog breed to choose is even more important. The breed should be a breed that will do well with children of all ages. You definitely do not want to overlook this issue and get a breed that does not do well with children. Pugs are great with kids and don’t seem phased by them at all.
In a nut shell, pugs are a small, loving and low to medium energy breed dog that love to cuddle and sit on your lap. They are great with kids, cats and other dogs. Pugs greet everyone with excitement and affection. They do not require a huge home, and with the proper training can be loyal companions.
As stated earlier, research should be done before choosing any breed. Here is a list of basic questions to get you started on your search:
1. What is your current lifestyle?
2. What size home do you live in?
3. What personality qualities are you looking for?
4. Can you afford to have a dog?
5. How much time and attention can you realistically give a dog?
After you have thought about these basic questions, you will better able to decide whether a dog is for you. And if the answer is yes, then the next step is deciding on which breed is best.
January 22, 2009 No Comments
Hello Pug Lovers
We love our pug. Until Henry came into our lives a few years ago, we knew little about pugs and had never been around them before.
We found the Green Mountain Pug Rescue site and saw a few pugs that needed a home. We did some research and found that a Pug would be a great fit for our family. Within a short time, we gave one of the rescued pugs a new home. His name is Henry and he has been a wonderful addition to our family.
We are going to post pictures of pugs as well as put up information that is important for all Pug owners. This site is a work in progress and will take some time to build up the content. We hope you enjoy what you see and please, please leave us some feedback.
Bob
January 3, 2009 No Comments